Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.