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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.